My flight arrived in Kathmandu 4 hours late, around 11AM. A driver from my hotel was there to meet me and I was able to persuade him to drive me directly to the government office which issues the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit which is required before entering the trekking circuit. I knew that the office closed at noon on Saturdays and it was essential that I obtain that document today or I would immediately lose a day from my schedule. We arrived just in the nick of time. Also required is a Trekking Information Management System (TIMS) permit but that office closed before I could get there. Fortunately, the TIMS permit can also be obtained at the beginning of the trail head so I will pick it up tomorrow. I spent the balance of the day exchanging currency, picking up a good trekking map, and stocking up on small food items for the trail. I am staying in the Thamel section of Kathmandu which is trekker central. There must be two dozens stores where you can obtain every manor of trekking gear, countless agencies which will arrange for local transportation, guides and porters, and several bars where solo trekkers post listings to find partners. Unfortunately, my hotel is situated right in the center of the action which means that it is noisy as hell well into the early morning hours.

I have many impressions of Kathmandu which I will share in later posts. For now let me just comment on the obvious lack of planning and thoughtful infrastructure. This photo is typical of the wiring that can be found throughout the city. No apparent rhyme or reason with old wires abandoned in place and new ones connected point to point with no coordination or master plan. The same principles at play here can be traced into every other aspect of civil infrastructure (roads, water, sewage treatment, zoning, etc.) contributing to a very low standard of living and safety. Despite an abundance of hydroelectric power, for example, one can expect rolling blackouts everyday because most of the power is sold to India at discount rates (no doubt the result of government corruption and special interests).

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You can’t throw a stick in Thamel without hitting a store or stand where tourist type gifts can be purchased. I will wait until I return at the tail end of my visit before making any acquisitions so that I do not have to carry the items with me while hiking.