Today is a rest day for all teams.  A portion of the US contingent used the time to visit Guanajuato, one of the most beautiful urban tapestries I have ever seen.  I have a 21 image stitched panorama of the entire city of which the above photo is but a single panel.  It may be my favorite pano of all time.

After viewing the city from above we went on a short walking tour of the main open air market where we had lunch and later visited the Parroquia de Basílica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato and the Teatro Principal.

We then re-boarded our tour van which took us to the Museo de las Momias de Guanajuato, a most appropriate destination on this first Day of the Dead (Día de Muertos). On display here are 59 mummies of a collection that totals 111. The naturally mummified bodies interred during a cholera outbreak in 1833 were later disinterred when a local tax was imposed for “perpetual” burial. Bodies for which the tax was not paid were exhumed and those in the best condition were stored and are now a major attraction for the city.

Continuing on our tour of truly haunting stuff, we next stopped at the Galeras de la Inquisicion, the most horrifying place I have ever visited. Here, in the name of the Catholic religion, indigenous people who failed to renounce their traditional beliefs were tortured to death in the most gruesome and drawn out ways imaginable. For all the importance and meaning it has for so many, it never ceases to amaze me how much killing has been and continues to be done in the name of religion. Some victims were locked into the chamber pictured below until they bled to death or died of thirst. This was one of the more benign methods used.  I will not describe the more heinous ones.
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Our final destination was distinctly more uplifting, to the tune of 8,900 feet. The Cristo Rey (Shrine of Christ the King) stands 75 feet tall atop the summit of Cerro del Cubilete (Dice Cup Hill) and was completed in 1950 after a smaller statue was destroyed in 1928 by the anti-religious (and particularly anti-Catholic) regime of President Plutarco Elías Calles.

When we returned to San Juan de los Lagos we rejoined the rest of the team for a formal dinner in honor of all the World Cup athletes, their delegations and the referees, some 500 people. We were treated to more musical and dance performances as well as a lovely dinner.  Pictured below are a couple of the 40 odd tables located in the open air court yard of a local school.  Nicolai can be seen on stage, where team captains from all countries were invited to try a Mexican game of dexterity called Barrel on a Stick.  Not a single one could catch the barrel, including the Mexican captain who, no doubt, was both familiar with the game and had plenty of time to practice.

This evening the US faced Turkey, the third ranked team in the world. With little chance of winning, the US objective was to limit the goal differential so as to maximize our chances of qualifying for the elimination rounds.  Turkey took little time to demonstrate why they are so highly ranked with a goal in the first minute and then a second before the end of the first half.  They started the second half with another before Nico provided the first US goal, a beautiful header off a corner kick (see full sequence below).  Turkey responded twice more to deliver the final 5-1 result.

The outcome was not unexpected but the goal margin placed us in a tie break situation (prioritization criteria: goal differential, goals against, card points, flip of a coin) for advancing to the elimination round.  Unfortunately, we had two yellow cards to Ireland’s one which allowed them to advance and us to enter the consolation bracket. Truly heartbreaking.

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I don’t believe you will find a more friendly and welcoming people than Mexicans. They have treated us like family from the moment we arrived. This morning the team visited a local kindergarten school to meet with the students and deliver presents purchased with donations collected in the US.  As has been my habit all week, I elected to walk rather than take the bus.  Unfortunately, Google Maps directed me to the wrong school, three miles in the opposite direction. The guard there let me in and the school’s Director explained I was at the wrong place.  I apologized for the interruption and told them I would simply walk back to my hotel.  Fifteen minutes into my journey, a van pulled up with the Director and a driver she had located to take me to the correct school.  There, I captured some of my favorite portraits as well as many of the team interacting with the students.

After four days in country, the US team was excited to take the pitch for their first match, facing a strong team from Kenya.  Nicolai got things off to a good start with a goal about ten minutes in.

Unfortunately, Kenya was able to equalize and then pull ahead with a second goal.  With less than a minute left in the game, Nicolai received a nice pass which he trapped from his knee to his head and then flicked over his defender to set up a shot directly in front of the keeper.  As the photo below illustrates, his defender used his arm and crutch to hold Nicolai preventing him from turning to kick the ball.  The referee’s failure to award a penalty kick for this clear infraction was a game changer that would cost the US dearly.

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Earlier in the day I went for a four mile walk along the river which flows through the city.  I encountered a great number of herons and a flock of parakeets which were too far away to photograph well.  

Later I did a little street photography focusing on two of my favorite subjects, families on motorcycles and kids.

As the sun set this evening, there were hundreds of birds flying in squadrons over the field and hundreds of fans in the stands where the US was set to take on Liberia in the first match of group play. Unfortunately, there were no Liberians to be found anywhere.  Apparently they were stranded in Ghana.  It is not clear whether it is a problem with flights or with visas but the US won by forfeit when Liberia failed to field a team at the appointed hour.  

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After practicing in the morning, Team USA participated in the 2018 Amputee Soccer World Cup opening ceremony.  Held at the main soccer stadium there was a standing room only crowd.

The competitors were treated to song, dance and traditional reenactments. 

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The president of the World Amputee Football Federation (also the president of the American Amputee Soccer Association) received a key to the city.  While only symbolic, I can tell you that the reality is even better.  The city has offered us their hearts.  We feel so welcomed by everyone we encounter. The evening was capped with fireworks and the team left totally energized for the coming competition.

San Juan de los Lagos is a city of 66,000 residents located in the northeast corner of the state of Jalisco, Mexico, in a region known as Los Altos at an altitude of 5741 feet. It is best known as the home of a small image of the Virgin Mary called Our Lady of San Juan de los Lagos. Since the first major miracle ascribed to her in 1632, she has been venerated especially for cases involving mortal danger. The miracles ascribed to her have made the basilica in which she is found a major tourist attraction, attracting between seven and nine million people per year.  The city with sponsorship from Proan, one of the leading egg producers in Mexico, stepped up to host the Amputee World Cup when the Guadalajara organizing committee began to drop the ball.  The reception and hospitality we have received is exceptional.  The four competition fields are all first rate and located on or overlooking the banks of the San Juan River.

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Most of the day was devoted to the World Amputee Football Federation Congress meeting which precedes the tournament.  The team had plenty of time to adjust to the altitude and explore the city before a late afternoon training session.

Jeanine was kind enough to wake up at 4am to drive me to the airport for my flight to Guadalajara via Dallas.  The first leg was delayed by 30m and I found myself running between terminals to make the second where I connected with Nicolai and the rest of the US National Amputee Soccer Team.  After arriving in Mexico and collecting our baggage the entire squad was bused to the city of San Juan de los Lagos some 2.5 hours away.  We enjoyed a three motorcycle police escort and a greeting committee when we arrived at our hotel.  By 7pm we were on the bus again for a brief trip to the dining venue where we will be taking our meals for the rest of our stay.  There, the team enjoyed reconnecting with fellow soccer players from around the world and entertainment put on by the tournament organizers.  Mexico sure knows how to host a World Cup.
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February 02, 1917 – October 08, 2018

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Although I am pleased with the photographs I took last week at Franconia Notch they could have been even better if the sun was out. Today’s forecast for that area was for bright sun and peak color. I decided to take the morning off and make a quick run up to the mountains for another attempt. One must seriously question the intelligence of someone who would make a 300 mile round trip for a second attempt at a photograph they already had. My journey began in the dark at 6am. I was half way to the notch when the sun rose. The light was glorious and the foliage magnificent. It was hard to contain my excitement. Alas, with less than 5 miles to go, I could see that the mountain pass I had hoped to photograph was shaded by clouds that looked like they were there to stay. I am no stranger to such disappointment and simply made the best of my return trip to Boston.
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