I found the perspective from directly under the arch to be the most interesting and started to feel less disappointed about my aborted excursion to the Wahweap Hoodoos with each image.

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I paused for almost an hour at the Grosvenor Arch which offers up many interesting photographic angles, this being one of the more traditional views with a good profile of the double arch.

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This morning I attempt to reach the Wahweap Hoodoos. With just a few miles to go after an hour on a progressively less passable dirt road I am unable to climb out of a wash with the SUV and am forced to turn around empty handed. I used the shovel I had purchased to frequently groom the road ahead of me and to extricate myself when I got stuck. Without the shovel I would have no doubt been stranded for days. Returning to the comparatively well groomed Cottonwood Road pictured here I travel north along the Cockscomb so named for the triceratops like fins which emerge from the ground along most of the 2 hour traverse to HW 12.

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After grabbing some food and fuel I decide to head over to Monument Valley. When I arrive 2.5 hours later winds are gusting to 50 mph and the air is so thick with dust that photography, let alone standing upright, is nearly impossible. Another 2.5 hours in the car back to Page where I treat myself to a cheap roadside motel and my first shower in 3 days. Although the later half of the day was a bust, the morning produced a treasure trove of images and a great hiking experience.

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I spent hours in and around the buttes, often hiking through deep sand enjoying one spectacular view after another. Fatigue and hunger eventually set in and I knew it was time to head back when the rocks started to look like ice cream desserts.

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Today, with winds gusting to 35mph it was very easy to understand how these bizzare features were created. When sand is captured by the wind you get a powerful sandblasting machine. Not a very hospitable climate for delicate optical equipment or photographers for that matter.

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Last night I traveled to within a few miles of the South Coyote Buttes Paw Hole trail head. I completed the journey before sunrise and was very fortunate to avoid getting stuck in the deep sand. My reward for missing both dinner and breakfast was golden light on what could pass for a Martian landscape. The features here are simply extraordinary both in color and texture.

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The panoramic view from Alstrom Point is spectacular but a wide angle photo shown in the small format of this blog would not do it justice. Here is a narrow angle slice which gives you a sense of the view. On the long ride back to civilization I cannot help but marvel in what I have seen in just my first full day on the ground.

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For my sunset photo I travel to Alstrom Point which over looks Lake Powell. The journey takes an hour and a half over dirt roads which get progressively worse. For my own safety I cover the last mile on foot only to discover this Land Rover parked at the end of the road in the middle of no where. We are so far off the beaten path you cannot even tune in a radio station. Now for the really synchronistic part. I had met and spoke to the German couple, Steffen and Alexandra, who are traveling across the USA in this vehicle, earlier in the day at Horseshoe Bend. The couple decided to interrupt their careers to embark on a three year tour of the world in this ultimate off road machine tricked out with a roof top tent and solar powered electrical grid. Both are avid photographers. They spent the last year in Australia and New Zealand, will spend a year in the USA, and then move on to South America for a year. With each transition they ship their rolling residence on to the next destination. Although I am tempted to stay and talk to them for some time after the sun has set, I still have a long walk ahead of me in the waning light to locate my comparatively pathetic SUV. In my enthusiasm to reach Alstrom Point I had failed to set a waypoint on my GPS when I left the car, a mistake I will never make again. The undulating mesa top made it impossible to see my SUV until I was right on top of it. Without the waypoint I was forced to retrace my steps rather than seek a bee line route back.

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The ultimate prize for arriving at the right time is a chance to photograph the beams of light which appear for minutes at a time when the angle of the sun is just right relative to the contours of the canyon. I came away with a treasure trove of images capturing a half dozen beams in action.

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One of my primary motivations for selecting the Page area for this vacation was its proximity to the Antelope slot canyons. The Upper Antelope Canyon is best photographed, spring through fall, on a cloudless day near noon when the sun shines directly down into the slots, reflecting off the walls and creating the most beautiful light in the world. With my Coyote Buttes pass squared away for tomorrow I have a little over an hour before I need to head over to Page. I use the time to make a short hike to the Toadstool Hoodoos, my favorite pictured here. The mid morning light was less than flattering but the sun eventually does have to rise.

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Horseshoe Bend, just outside of Page, is an often photographed portion of the Colorado River and my sunrise photo destination this morning. I am quickly back in the SUV to reach the Paria Ranger Contact Station by 9am to enter the daily lottery for one of ten walk-in permits to access the North Coyote Buttes restricted area. With 54 similarly hopeful photographers present this day I would not win a coveted pass to one of the most photogenic destinations in the USA. I simultaneously entered the lottery for the South Coyote Buttes area, almost as beautiful but more arduous to reach. With only twelve people vying for the 10 permits I like my chances much better. Alas with 6 permits issued a family of 5 wins the next drawing leaving me out of luck again. But wait….there are only four permits left so the family must either leave someone behind or relinquish their position. They are unwilling to separate so I luck into a pass which will grant me access on Wednesday.

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From LA I fly to St. George, Utah where I rent a SUV. Instead of the high clearance, 4WD vehicle I specified, my only choice is a 2WD SUV wannabe with a low hanging air dam. This unfortunate situation will impact my ability to reach some of my planned destinations. As I drive towards Page, AZ I stop at a hardware store to purchase a shovel, correctly anticipating how essential this will be for self extrication should I get stuck in the middle of the desert somewhere. I was in the vicinity of the abandoned town of Old Paria as the sun was setting and made a quick detour to capture this image (no post processing, color is true to the scene) and also elected to spend the night there. The town was originally settled by Mormon farmers who were followed by gold miners when flash floods destroyed the farm land. More recently it was used as a location for filming Western movies but vandals burned down the sets years ago and now it is just a beautiful destination at the end of a dirt road. Although I came prepared to sleep in my tent, I opted to sleep in the SUV (its single virtue being adequate space with the rear seats folded flat for me to stretch out diagonally across the cargo area). Sleeping in the SUV was no less comfortable than in the tent and saved me setup and tear down time each day. I could roll out of my sleeping bag and be on the road in under a minute.

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On approach to LAX I notice hills covered in blooming goldenrod. I have rarely had so many great aerial photo opportunities on a single flight and take this as a good omen for my week of photography.

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