Hraunfossar (“lava waterfalls”) gets its name from the countless streams of clear water which emerge from under the edge of the lava field Hallmundarhraun and cascade into the river Hvítá (“White River”). Hvítá actually has a very nice turquoise colour. The lava is quite porous so rain seeps through until it meets a more dense rock layer, then runs between the lava layers, eventually emerging to form almost a kilometer long series of falls.

When the soft morning rain turned into a torrential downpour, I tried to think of an indoor photographic activity I could undertake during the afternoon. I remembered hearing about a brand new attraction (opened just a week earlier) called “Into the Glacier,” featuring Europe’s largest man-made ice caves and tunnel. Set high on Langjökull, Iceland’s second largest ice cap, and stretching 1/3 mile into solid glacier ice at 100 feet below the surface. What I failed to consider was what a torrential downpour at low altitude would translate to at an altitude of 4000 feet. The answer is a zero visibility blizzard with winds that will knock you off your feet. First, let me share photos of the interior and tell you that it is a very beautiful destination, if a bit tourist oriented.

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Now let me share the story of the journey to the cave which was worth the price of admission alone and probably my most intimate encounter with the deadly force of nature. At a rally point several miles from the entrance to the cave, we (about 15 guests) boarded a massive 20 ton, 8 wheeled super truck designed specifically to traverse glaciers. Visibility was about 50 feet and winds were averaging 20 knots (pictured below). As the truck began ascending the glacier, winds increased and visibility decreased until we were in the middle of a complete white out (zero visibility).  The driver is now navigating by GPS alone and must find the tiny opening to the cave and his two colleagues who are madly shoveling snow to keep it open without driving into a crevasse. When we arrive, we are told that we must walk the final 20 feet in groups of five led by a guide wearing goggles and a special face mask.  Until we get outside we think they are joking when they say that you must hold the hand of the person in front and back of you or risk being lost in the storm. The second we exited the truck cabin into the 50 knot wind carrying sleet and snow it became infinitely clear that you were hanging on for dear life. You had to turn your face away from the wind or risk having it sand blasted by ice crystals. Walking that last 20 feet through the deep snow and gale force winds seemed like it took an eternity. When we reached the opening to the tunnel we crawled through the opening and tumbled like Winnie the Pooh down the snow bank, one on top of the other. In an instant it was quiet, warm (32F), and there was no wind. The next 90 minutes were serene and it was hard to imagine that just 100 feet above us a massive blizzard was raging. Fortunately, by the time the tour ended the blizzard had abated significantly making our return to the truck a much less harrowing experience although the additional snow fall meant that we had to climb an 8 foot snow bank and crawl out of the tunnel through the remaining two foot opening.